Skin needing hydration and a refresh? Here's a guide to Korean skincare routines
The skin is our largest organ and it is vital to take care of it. But achieving clear, healthy and hydrated skin isn't always the easiest, especially with individual skin concerns, like hyperpigmentation or fine lines.
That's why a lot of beauty consumers are turning to Korean skincare for help.
"Korean beauty is a lifestyle. It's about taking care of your skin before you see signs of aging. It's about prevention. It's also about deep hydration and using products that are gentle for your skin," says Charlotte Cho, co-founder of Soko Glam, an online K-beauty marketplace, and founder of skincare brand Then I Met You.
Over the last decade, K-beauty has surged in the U.S. market. Maybe you've heard of the viral "10-step Korean skincare routine" or have stumbled upon product recommendations on social media.
Whether you're a K-beauty newbie or an expert, here's a guide, according to industry experts:
What is K-beauty?
"Korean beauty is all about the philosophy. It's about preventative beauty," explains Erica Choi, co-founder of Superegg and licensed esthetician. "It's about the rituals that we establish for ourselves."
The approach to Korean beauty is "skincare before makeup," shares Abe Cho, founder of Coréelle, an online K-beauty distributor and marketplace. In South Korea, there is a phrase "쌩얼," that roughly translates to "fresh or bare face."
"Face without the makeup," Abe adds to the translation, "it's like a sacred concept for a woman." Motivated by this concept, Korean beauty consumers put in great effort toward their skin.
"What I love about Korean beauty is that everything starts with your skin," says Charlotte. "It's always about taking care of your skin first before for covering it up."
The basics of K-beauty are about creating a healthy base before using makeup.
"It is very innovative and advanced, but at the same time, there's always been a certain element of play and fun to it," says Choi. "You could be as serious and scientific as you want. At the same time, I feel like there's a lot of things that just bring you joy."
How does Korean skincare work?
It all starts with the ingredients. "For the South Korean customer, you have to be innovative," says Abe. That innovation comes through in each product, like hydrocolloid pimple patches that absorb oils and reduce acne inflammation, but don't dry or damage the skin.
Korean skincare has to be a practice though, not just a one-time experiment. Daily use will gradually lead "to having the most optimal skin health," explains Choi.
"It's made for everyone, including (those with) sensitive skin," she adds.
According to Charlotte, Korean beauty focuses on sensitive skin treatments because a majority of Korean people identify as having sensitive skin.
"They don't hyper focus on acids that are going to – if you use incorrectly – really strip away from the moisture or your barrier. So they really look for gentle treatments," she explains.
All of this culminates in gentle synthetics, which create non-abrasive or astringent products. Korean skincare also uses calming ingredients, like centella asiatica and other herbals, as well as fermented ingredients.
Each product is designed to pinpoint specific skin concerns, such as hydration, protection or aging.
For instance, persimmon, snail mucin and hydrocolloid are often used to effectively treat breakouts, Charlotte explains. Certain Korean exfoliants are another example, tending to be cream-based, rather than depending on the BHAs used in Western products, she adds.
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How to start a Korean skincare routine
Starting your Korean skincare routine may seem overwhelming, but it doesn't have to be. Charlotte, who has been a major contributor to K-beauty's popularity in the U.S., coined the "10-step Korean skincare routine."
"It was an opportunity to educate people about the possible steps there are in a comprehensive skincare routine, and it's, of course, your own discretion to pick and choose the steps you need in order to achieve your skin results," she says.
Korean skincare is highly customizable. It's based on your skin type and the concerns you wish to address. It can be as many as 10 steps, but it can be as minimal as cleanser and moisturizer, explains Choi.
The essentials are cleanser, toner or essence, moisturizer and SPF, Choi says. But it's really about finding what works for you.
"There are no rules," says Charlotte. "I think it all starts with what your personal skin concerns are and what your lifestyle is."
Korean skincare routine steps
The first step is to address your skin health and figure out what you want to refine, whether it's dark circles, acne or sun damage.
A simple Korean skincare routine will include:
- An oil cleanser
- A water-based cleanser
- A toner and/or essence
- A moisturizer
- SPF (during the day)
Start with an oil cleanser and then a water-based cleanser − also known as "double-cleansing," according to Charlotte.
"You need to remove any impurities from your skin to start off with a clean canvas, clean base for the rest of your product to work well," she says. The oil cleanser will remove makeup and oils from your face, while the water-based will remove any remaining dirt or sweat.
Essence and toner are next and can be used interchangeably, depending on the product. These help hydrate your skin but also can minimize pore size and acne.
Moisturizer follows to rehydrate your skin and give it that dewy complexion. "It's going to really help coat and protect your skin and cocoon it with with hydration," says Charlotte.
If you're going outside, SPF should be the last step of your routine.
You can always add more steps − like eye creams or serums − if you like.
"What's fun about Korean beauty is that there's huge discovery, and it's all about understanding you first before you really jump into trends," Charlotte adds.
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